Churros at the airport.
We got there early so we wasted time with expensive airport food...Guy's Deli makes a great pastrami sandwich.
Relatively event-free flight via Southwest to Long Beach.
Deplaned and off to find luggage.
Long Beach is our favorite airport in southern California!
Spotting this, there were jokes that came to mind about "in-flight emissions" given that I was sitting next to the kids (and there WERE emissions)
In-N-Out in Garden Grove.
Can't go wrong with it!
Then over to our hotel, the Park Vue Inn, across from Disneyland.
We headed over to Downtown Disney, to get a little flavor of Disney without paying for entrance tickets.
Lego store (we didn't stop there this time)
Mickey Mouse cacti.
We put in for a table at Trader Sam's, our favorite little Disney tiki bar. We were prepared for a long wait.
Sauntering around the Disneyland Hotel buildings...the Big Thunder Mountain model railroad.
Debra pointing out how the seats are arranged like Mickey ears.
Old geysers (I can't remember from where?) built into the hotel landscaping.
Teacup chairs up in the main lobby. Debra and I went to do shopping while the kids did...I dunno, probably stuff on their phone.
Later, waiting around for the call that our table was ready...kids spotted a cat, and much fun was had. Meanwhile I was listening to a band distantly in Downtown Disney...really good Hawaiian music and surprisingly good steel guitar! I looked it up later and it may be a group called Nat and her Tiger Five, and best as I can tell, the steel guitarist is Kully Stiles (great player with his other group the Hilo Hi-Flyers). Nice hearing that by accident, since I knew of Kully as a player...and he sounded great!
Then we got a text and our table was ready. Off to Trader Sams!
We've been only a handful of times, but it's a fun place and probably the closest thing to an inspiration for our ongoing basement tiki bar project.
I like the wall covering. Took the photo to remind me, for future inspiration.
Tiki Room drummers visible above the bar.
Gorgeous window effect (that gets stormy when certain drinks are ordered).
Creepy puppet suspended in a crate from the ceiling. For some reason!
We ordered the Uh-Oa which arrived on fire and we were summoned to throw sprinkles of cinnamon into the blaze.
It got a little chaotic, especially given our preference to not be the center of attention, but it was fun.
Got a basic pupu platter as more of an afternoon snack. Kids got Schweitzer Falls drinks.
After that we started to look into going over to the Grand Californian, but the way we were walking, it was limited to hotel guests only.
So we ended up walking around the whole complex.
I don't remember why we didn't just go back through Downtown Disney...maybe the security lines were getting long...or we just wanted to avoid the crush of people.
The palms were quite pretty though, lit up as night fell.
Pete using his nearly completely busted hand-me-down phone to take pictures.
We got our actual dinner, from Pizza Press, and headed back to the hotel to watch fireworks on the second floor area that used to be the breakfast area, now no longer provided (because of "covid" they say lol).
Getting our Disney fireworks for FREE! This must have been the finale.
We were tired and we went to sleep after that.
Next morning, woke up early as usual, and got ready for our Disney day. The kids haven't quite outgrown the bunk beds at Park Vue Inn.
Quick walk across the street to the park...
Going through security, we managed to get into a line that did not seem eager to move quickly, but there was some amusement in store. The old guy running the metal detector was particularly surly, and when I put my phone and keys on the table prior to walking through...he noted that I had just set them on the table, instead of waiting for them to slide one of those dishes back over. In a voice that reminded me of J Walter Weatherman from Arrested Development he growled "NEXT TIME wait for the BOWL!". (We all found this funny later.) Compounding this, his partner at the security line apparently got in a bit of an altercation with another guest, and I didn't hear the context, but he must have called her "buddy", because I heard her angrily proclaim in a heavy accent "I NOT BUDDY! I GIRL!" While they were comically ill-suited to represent the Happiest Place on EarthTM, we got two memorable catchphrases in less than a minute, so it was well worth it.
Waiting in line to get in...
Once the gates open, we headed up towards the main plaza through Main Street.
Waiting for rope drop, Walt and the castle in the background.
After rope drop, heading through the castle and Fantasyland.
First stop, Starwarsland.
Our thought was to quickly do the standby line on Smugglers Run, which turned out to be a bit of a bad bet...
The line was long but it is a cool line to go through.
Last time we went here (err..."here" being the Starwarsland in Orlando) Pete left his phone on this ride. Thankfully not this time.
I took a lot of pictures in this line, because, well, we were there for a long time.
This is a cool room that simulates a section of the Falcon...waiting for "final boarding"...
Next we got breakfast at Ronto Roasters. Basically a pita bread with a long, thin sausage, egg, and cheddar cheese. We split two of them.
I can't remember but there was some kind of reason I was guilted into buying the kids Thermal Detonator Cokes.
Then onto Big Thunder Mountain.
It's the roller coaster the kids actually like.
Over to Toon Town to do the Runaway Railway. The hill effect in the background is extra neat when there's an overcast like this.
(Mischa Mouse voice) DEGENERATE CAPITALIST TROLLOP MINNISHKA MOUSE, GALLIVANTING SHAMELESSLY WITHOUT PROPER TUNIC IN EXHIBITIONIST EXCESS
The whole theme of the ride is that there was this tragic train crash involving Goofy (and apparently caused by Mickey), and I questioned the Imagineer's choice of spattering red paint all over everything in line, simulating the high degree of bloodshed such an accident might involve. Peter was similarly disturbed.
Then onto the train. Debra likes admittedly boring rides like these...get her talking about the People Mover, you'll see what I mean!
Stegosaur vs T Rex in the diorama section of the train ride.
Then over to Adventureland.
Dole whips while waiting for the Tiki Room to start. Love the little waiting area...with the animatronic "tiki" statues...some are slightly insensitive in the script, with influences from across a variety of different Oceanian cultures...one was reminiscent of the bad Native American dialogue from 60s TV shows..."Me Rongo!". At least they didn't add "heap big!"...but not that I'm complaining, it's harmless fun.
Love the show although we've seen it...a lot... Still, a significantly less annoying excuse to sit in air-conditioning than Small World.
Then we rode Matterhorn, the duration of which I loudly used my Hans and Franz voice to amuse/embarrass the children, and possibly offend German visitors (Basil Fawlty: "who won the bloody war anyway?!").
Got some churros, Debra and I got a pineapple sugar coated one to share which was delightful.
Then onto Pirates. Passing the Blue Bayou restaurant which we've never successfully got reservations for, but I mean, we kinda don't love restaurants any more anyway. Might as well be the folks having fun on the ride vs the folks sitting watching them from the tables.
Quick walk through of the Swiss Family Robinson treehouse.
This looks like Father Robinson built himself a still to make coconut schnapps...
Then walking out of Adventureland we noted our kids were missing. Mildly nervous but not in a flat out panic yet, we retraced our steps and sure enough, both kids were back here. Why you ask?
Ducks. Of course.
Then we did the Buzz Lightyear ride. Astro Blasters maybe? I got 228900 points vs Peter's 54300. Then onto the monorail (see previous note about boring transportation based rides being quite entertaining to Debra in particular).
Next up Autopia.
I rode with Pete. Debra apparently had to drive with Gretchen because our 16 year old student driver...did not want to drive.
Haven't done this ride in many years, but I'm annoyed with the Nemo rebrand. If they buy the intellectual property and rebrand it as Red October or Das Boot, I will be first in line!
Back over to Starwarsland.
Ages ago, before they had Starwarsland, we did a meet and greet with Kylo Ren at the Star Wars Launch Bay. Pete was terrified. -Slightly- less terrified running into him 8 years later.
Rise of the Resistance...
Really well thought out ride.
Storm troopers...
Pete trying on the flight helmet.
We then headed back to our hotel, Debra and the kids got ice cream and I had leftover pizza.
A bit of swimming at the pool, but it was a bit too much direct sun for me. Pete had fun repeatedly jumping in.
Super dangerous heat advisory...what, it might get up to the upper 80s or low 90s with the usual low humidity SoCal enjoys??? Californians are known for being wimps when it gets chilly but COME ON
Back over to the park in the later afternoon.
I can't remember what song the barbershop quartet was doing...was it some kind of funk, rhythm and blues, or rock song? I don't know but I remember thinking, how much more white could this version of the song be, and the answer is none...more white
In line for the Jungle Cruise! Remember hearing, in line, a tune being played and maniacally trying to place it, until I realized it was Deep Purple, a classic old standard that I used to play...and need to play more again!
Then at Gretchen's request we did Pirates again...
Next up, Indiana Jones.
Not great pictures, but a flock of birds adding to the atmosphere in Adventureland.
Evening snacks at Tropical Hideaway...
Bao and lumpia with another Dole whip float.
Then into Fantasyland, Mister Toad's Wild Ride. It broke down before we got on, so we got an extra Lightning Lane pass.
Which we used on Thunder Mountain.
Second time on the ride, but the lighting is more fun at night.
Worked our way back to the Main Street train station, to catch the 9:30 fireworks.
Fire station on Main Street...
Wasn't a bad spot to catch the show!
Finale:
Then I took the kids back to the hotel...they were tired, I was tired...but Debra wanted to stay to close and I said, go for it! Meanwhile I used AI to come up with my insanely good idea for a Finding Nemo followup.
Debra meanwhile enjoyed her stay without feeling like she was dragging us along.
She did Casey Jr, then Dumbo.
She went to Frontierland to watch Fantasmic (unfortunately no flaming dragon in the show any more), then back to Fantasyland to do the Storybook Canal, and Mister Toad, where she tried to get a selfie in "Hell".
Then she rode Pinocchio, shopped for a friend, and got a Mickey pretzel, and came back to the hotel when the park closed.
Next morning was kind of the day for "my stuff". First stop, the USS Iowa!
Definitely been on this beautiful ship a lot.
If you've read the blog, I don't need to keep explaining Iowa class battleships. 16inch shell and powder bags display next to the number two turret.
Officer country, the wardroom.
XOs cabin...I spotted it!!! I've often kept my eyes peeled for a Janes Fighting Ships on ship tours and finally found one. I have an 86-87, this is an 89-90 one.
Officers' head, offering a surprising amount of privacy as compared to the enlisteds.
A very interesting optical (non-electronic) rangefinder. Pete and I found it interesting.
Captain's chair on one of the many bridges.
CIC, I think (I'm writing this many weeks later).
Various alarm and communication systems.
Inside the armored bridge, designed to keep directing the ship even when the superstructure was being battered and shredded by bombs and shells.
The spirit of dads is strong with this one. "You're letting out the cold air!" taken to a new level with watertight doors.
NOW HEAR THIS
Open bridge area.
I thought these might be smoke launchers but no...chaff dispensers. Essentially, modern smoke generators, just for radar, not optics.
Harpoon launchers.
Debra and G contentedly sitting around waiting, next to the Tomahawk launchers and under the fire control tower.
Sample version of a Tomahawk.
Pete and I going below decks for more of a tour.
Enlisted mess menu for the four meals of the day...including midrats.
Going to start calling all hats "cover".
Meat and Vegetable prep station would have greatly offended Debra...she tends to like me to keep raw meat and vegetables seperate (I have dedicated knives and cutting boards for only raw meat).
Soft serve machine.
Damage control station...note the plugs!
Industrial scale dryers.
Barber shop.
Love the sign "Please Urinate With Precision and Elegance". Well, I may not always have the former, but I always urinate with the latter!
Then we headed over to get lunch at a yakitori shop in Gardena. Shin-Sen-Gumi.
We just ordered a bunch of skewers off of the paper menu.
The vibe of the place is a little less formal, more a fun, loud izakaya sort of place.
Shrimp, fried chicken karaage (mostly for Pete), and tsukune and negima skewers.
Other skewers...liver, quail egg, skin, bacon wrapped egg (fantastic!), shishito peppers, and shiitake.
We probably overordered but hey, you don't get real yakitori that often.
Next stop our hotel for the night! No, not the Russian rusty sub though I would have absolutely paid to stay on an old decommed sub.
Gretchen was taken with this crane.
The Queen Mary is a big old girl.
Churchill was a frequent flyer!
Getting to our cabin...
Tiny twin in a little side room...I think they combined two historical cabins into one to make the hotel room.
The hallway our room was located in.
Quite a long hallway!
Lovely woodwork in the cabin.
Main shopping area...I forget the deck names.
I realized what makes this doll freaky looking is that the head is too small...more like an adult ratio of head size to body.
Very fancy bar, we'd visit it later that evening.
Bofors, ready to fight off German bombers.
Signals to call the crew to stations...
Had a similar, but much much less posh version of this chair, ages ago.
The indoor pool, closed off but viewable slightly through a window.
Brunch was served here (I'm sure drastically expensive) but I snuck a picture of the hall.
Down in the engine room. Kids were spooked since it was said to be "haunted".
Various control and monitoring systems.
Propeller shafts coming from the turbines.
A view of the screws.
Rudder system.
Steering electrical...
Then there was a section that was devoted to Winston Churchill. Closest thing to a British military museum I've been to (the Queen Mary was, by nature, a bit of a transatlantic thing). His office.
Pretty fancy furniture and woodwork!
Simple bedroom during the Blitz, for protection.
This one reminds me of the scenes from "Sink the Bismarck".
Fire control systems.
An old panel showing detected fires throughout the ship.
I was pretty taken by the woodwork of the ship. Do I love the flat gray painted metal of a working battleship? Yes. But curly, birdseye maple? Just beautiful.
Flame, curly, figured, birdseye...
As a guitarist I stared at this kind of bookmatched maple figure and loved it. I never had a guitar with it. Maybe someday!
The old gal herself.
Isolation ward was a bit less comfortable.
Up on the bridge.
Getting a bit tired as we finished out the tour on the upper decks.
Pete didn't want to try the place that did chowders and various soups on board, so we eventually caved and left the ship for dinner. A slightly sketchy Long Beach Pollo Loco. Chicken was good even if the location was not the best.
They had two numbered prints of this same painting in each room of the cabin. LOL. Rather saucy. Dated '89, got to cash in on the mermaid craze.
The room was hot...no AC, we asked for a couple fans, they just gave us one tower style fan, and it wasn't as effective as a box fan. Definitely kept the portholes open for fresh air.
This party barge was SO LOUD.
Debra and I walking around later...very beautiful piano, with more figured wood...this time walnut.
Walking to the bar, got a premonition that this might not be the relaxing, quiet, demure evening experience I had envisioned.
We got a lovely spot outside, though. Had an Old Fashioned and Debra, a Sprite.
The guy inside was singing like the worst songs you could imagine, and dancing, but without even a real band. I mean, karaoke is usually something the patrons do themselves, but this guy was like thinking that singing along to karaoke tracks was good entertainment somehow. I mean it was memorable.
Got a tiny bit of him singing this just awful song ("You Can Leave Your Hat On" thank you sir I will leave ALL of it on if you don't mind)
At the bar waiting for a neat Laphroig, caught him serenading this guy (much more animated than the picture implies).
Back to our cabins as night falls on Long Beach. Nice view out the porthole.
After a not great, not terrible night of sleep, woke up to a slightly foggy Long Beach.
Today was a travel day...bidding goodbye to the lovely old ship, and the flag of my native state (definitely the coolest state flag by far).
Back to Long Beach airport, car turned in. Heading west...and by west I don't mean San Pedro.
Not sure if she is perched because she is staring at animals but my guess it is something, a dog, birds, insects, could be anything.
Pete enjoys the external boarding process. I do to, at least for now, until the novelty wears off.
We boarded the Hawaiian Airlines plane bound for Honolulu...after sitting down I heard a bit of Hawaiian steel guitar, an instrumental of someone playing the Don McDiarmid/Robert Miller song "Hana". By the lush chordal intros and the thinner, trebley tone, pretty sure it was Barney Isaacs, even though I'm not sure I've heard that particular recording before.
Browsing the inflight magazine Hana Hou, pleased to find Waikiki Steel Guitar Week advertised...on my way as it happens!
Relatively easy flight where I burned time by playing this silly "Stardew Valley" game my kids like (CONQUERING THE VALLEY IN TIME BY HOARDING VEGETABLES MUAHAHA). Upon landing, chuffed to see F-22 Raptors at the airport. Looked it up later and allegedly this is an Air National Guard unit?? Seems like ANG units would be the ones who get the older kit, Falcons and Eagles, etc., but the weekend warriors get to fly the world's most advanced fighter in Hawaii!
Stood inline at the rental agency...was a bit warm, without breeze, and experiencing the deep existential dread of sweating in a non-moving rental car line. But we eventually got a car and headed mauka towards windward side. Slightly out of the way, went to Nuuanu Pali. The kids were initially not tempted by views from the pali, because...of course, there were chickens.
Baby chickens even.
I'm going to repeatedly include really bad, over-done panorama pictures and you'll just have to humor me.
Such a great view of this side of Hawaii...Kailua and Kaneohe.
Olomana ridge to the right, Kailua beyond.
Good start to our visit!
It was, however, very windy up there. But this time, unlike a few years ago, it was at least not foggy with no visibility.
I think a bit of a heiau or memorial...site of the battle that won Kamehameha control of O'ahu.
YES YES they are chickens there will be many more
For...lunch? our time was so screwed up, who knows...for our next meal, whatever that should be, we went to the Windward Mall. Which was so...like a mall, it took me back to the 90s. Just classic mall, like we don't hardly have around KC (that I go to anyway).
Debra really amused by the Fun Factory, some kind of arcade place that also was very nostalgic. A bit of research...it was an arcade chain started here in Hawaii, but there were a ton of them mainland side at its height (several in KC) that eventually all went out of business except for a few places in California.
It doesn't look like there's much of a line, but I waited here like half an hour or more (the line is started out of screen to the right). This place had a great reputation for one of the best teri burgers, and I was willing to wait in line to try. Mostly locals in line, workers obviously on (what would have to be an extended) lunch break.
Got mine no mayo, with teri fries. It was really good! Debra got a kind of mediterranean salad with shrimp from somewhere else, not sure what the kids got. They did graze on my teri fries (really good stuff).
Much time was spent at the mall pet store. All this place needed was a computer game store like Babbages at Independence Center to overdose me on 90s mall nostalgia.
We got to our home base...Paradise Bay, up north past Kaneohe by Kahaluu.
We got there a bit early so our rooms weren't yet ready, so we did necessary paperwork, put in a reservations for some kayaks, and then explored a bit. These barges sat afloat this little river into Kaneohe Bay.
Gretchen observing the (many) local chickens.
Then we got texted, room was ready. It was a really nice waterfront cottage, and I do mean waterfront. Our back patio had quite the view of Kualoa mountains of the Ko'olaus, across Kaneohe Bay.
First a bit of swimming to cool off.
It was small but very pretty little pool. Constant bird calls all around you.
I ran to the grocery store and got some food...that night we did kind of a modestly healthy smorgasbord...kalua pig on sweet rolls, and then lots of fruit and vegetables. And PO (apparently no guava in this version).
Beautiful view. My original plan was to go up to Kualoa beach but we opted not to.
I went back up to chat with Uncle Danny, the daily musical guest who plays his 'ukulele and sings really well. Resolved maybe to sit in and jam with him a bit (with his encouragement/welcome), for fun.
The lights and torches come on at dusk, really adds to the atmosphere.
My dinner...he laulau, ke kalua pua'a, ka hala kahiki, ka pia, a me ka poi!
Rain clouds coming in and buffeting the Ko'olaus. This is why it is so green on this side.
And our friends who always came out to play on the deck after dark. Debra was not a huge fan...I was shocked that Gretchen was not captivated by them in her usual "I have fallen in love with this popularly-considered-revolting insect" manner.
Next morning, up with a beautiful sunrise and the sound of birds.
Could get used to this view. You can see Mokoli'i out there.
Greeting committee for this chicken who was happy to walk right up to us on the deck, like he was the kama'aina and we were the malihini (true, I suppose).
Going to be a bright sunny day.
We had reserved kayaks, but had to wait until 9am for a yoga class to finish (so we didn't disturb their chakras or whatever when one of us falls in the water and curses extemporaneously). So kids were on chicken watch.
The chicken obsession is definitely Gretchen's but Pete will get on board with that kind of thing pretty easily.
And this was the chart I had saved, hoping to plot our course...out to the Kaneohe sandbar.
We had two tandem kayaks, as we had reserved, although there was some confusion because a nice Canadian family also thought they had them reserved but the staff said the two were ours (and the staff went to get more kayaks for the Canucks...funnily enough, only other place we've kayaked was indeed in Canada, last year, in Waterton Lake).
It was...I must say...a slog. A slog with delightful views, but a slog nonetheless.
It was out there somewhere. We were in very very shallow water, going against the prevailing current, and it started to feel like we'd make better time if I got out and walked, pulling the kayak along with me.
I did eventually hop out...having realized via the magic of GPS just how little actual progress we'd made (perhaps 1/4 or 1/3 the way to the sandbar), I was reasonable and said, we don't need to necessarily go all the way there. So I hopped out, and held onto the kayaks while people rested and passed around some snacks.
They are smiling this broadly not because it is beautiful and idyllic. They are smiling like this because I said "it's OK, we can go back". Honestly my back was kind of killing me, I'm probably not kayaking right.
We got the kayaks back to the launch, I think we swam in the pool for a bit to cool off and refresh ourselves. Then we headed north...stopping first at the Coral Kingdom up by Kualoa. We noted all these fallen, abandoned mangos from a huge manako tree in the parking lot. Fruit here are like weeds!
What we were here for...hulihuli chicken! Keawe wood, open fire, half chickens on skewers.
Gretchen and Debra shared the garlic shrimp plate, me and Pete the hulihuli chicken plate.
Then further to our intended stop, Kahana Bay.
Behold my stupidly overdone panorama!
As you can see, this is not an overcrowded beach. As you might expect, a song sent me here, Beautiful Kahana by Mary Montano.
We swam extensively. This is us (photo by Debra ashore) when a few dufus kids on boards lost directional control and went right by us. Water was murky so not great for snorkelling but cool, clean, and surf was mild.
Pete found a coconut. Proceeded to bash it with various rocks until he finally (much time later) exposed the inner nut. He was pretty proud.
Panorama a bit overdone.
"Mau loa nō koʻu mahalo nui i ka nani pūnono o Kahana."
Muscovy duck passes by while Gretchen is distracted with something else.
She wanted to keep a small assorted collection but we said, better to take a picture instead, to remember them by.
Then a short stopover on the way back at Kualoa beach. Lots of red-crested cardinals here.
Great views on both sides...mauka you have the imposing mountain ridge.
And makai you of course have...ke kai. And Mokoli'i, aka Chinaman's Hat. Pete showing off some coral.
It wasn't too overpopulated either. Surf very calm. We'd snorkel here later in the week.
I really love palm trees. Have since I was a kid...a symbol of my homeland (CA, not HI, to be clear haha).
Tree climbing became quite a thing this trip for the kids. This was more of a "beginner level" tree.
Mokoli'i. If you've noticed that I'm using the plain apostrophe instead of the fancy/correct 'okina, well that's true because I've got an English keyboard layout and I'm being lazy. And a lot of times, unless I'm trying to talk in Hawaiian, you leave the 'okinas out anyway.
He wahi nani keia!
So Pete got the coconut partially extracted, and I took it the rest of the way, eventually shaving/grating a fair amount of meat out of it. Labor of love, but it wouldn't go to waste.
I prepped some food (fried portuguese sausage and reheated kalua pork) and then went up to the lobby to jam and talk story with Uncle Danny Ki'aha. We had a good time! It's just him usually and it was fun to play along and accompany him (and because steel guitarists tend to know older tunes...we kind of went back to the old classics).
Meanwhile Pete is hunting crabs with a neighbor kid.
I prepped my food...laulau with shredded coconut on top...and took in the sunset.
Next morning, Pete is back out hunting crabs. Meanwhile I was trying to get reservations for Hanauma Bay in two days, but when the reservations came available, they were gone in what seemed like seconds, and I couldn't get four. But it was expensive, and Hanauma Bay is just one of many places we could swim and snorkel at. So I took it as providence...saved some money, would go see new, less populated places.
First stop was this ridiculously picturesque McDonalds for the local style breakfast plate...we split two, with portuguese sausage, spam, rice, and egg (with Aloha shoyu naturally).
Plenty of food for us. Rice for breakfast...it's good.
Can't remember where we bought this, but we bought Japanese freezer bags. Not sure why, but it amused me.
We were going to go to the Byodo-In, but a rainstorm instead made us opt to...not. We headed back, and I went to Kailua to have an in person lesson with Kumu Alan. His garden looks nice!
Lovely selection of steels here.
On my way back, stopped and saw a few famous musicians in Kaneohe...apparently all clustered here as a perk of the musicians' union? Charles Kaipo Miller, singer of the aforementioned song "Hana" on the album Heart of Hawaii.
Atta Isaacs, brother of Barney and a famous slack key player.
Gabby Pahinui!
Andy Cummings, author of the song Waikiki, quoted in the inscription.
And Uncle Benny Kalama, who was "Mister Hawaiian Music", active for many decades, playing with Alfred Apaka, Jules Ah See, and later, my kumu.
Then back to home base, had a quick lunch, and headed north again...back to Kualoa beach for some snorkeling.
Rock wall "breakwater" out at the southern end of the beach...water was pretty calm. I took one person out at a time to the wall to snorkel and look for fish...decent amount out there by the wall. Lots of folks kayaking or paddleboarding out to Mokoli'i.
Gretchen variously went hunting for cats she spotted.
Snack break. This was as close as we apparently got to taking the slightly offensive picture where you pretend to be wearing the "Chinaman's Hat" but there were a bunch of Asian folks who seemed to all be doing that. Kind of not offensive if you lean into the thing that is supposed to be offensive to you? I think?
Back to our place...nice drizzly afternoon. Was a lot cooler than the previous day.
And I got to spend another hour or so jamming with Uncle Danny. That was a real good time.
Dinner at dusk for me was poi and the third of my laulaus I had bought, with the rest of the coconut and a diced habanero.
Absolutely goofy bathroom sink, I just had to take a picture cause it was so darn weird and unnecessary. I mean, a bathroom sink was necessary, but not...in this strange form.
Got up early the next day and went to get some (I think?) pumpkin bread and coffee from the lobby. I really fell in love with this place, the atmosphere was so nice!
Morning victuals with the Ko'olaus in view.
We had a sort of slow morning, since we couldn't check in to our next place until later that afternoon.
Chicken friend was back.
Gretchen distracted by a family of chickens outside our door.
We had time for a last swim at 9, when it opened...might as well!
10 out of 10, would absolutely stay here again. Assuming we get back to O'ahu...make that WILL.
We went to get lunch / dessert at Waiahole Poi Factory, just a bit up the road.
First up was splitting a large Hawaiian plate...kalua pig, squid luau (yours truly had to eat most of it) a small bit of poi mainly for me to taste (it was good, but not too demonstrably different than the ones I'd had), lomi salmon and haupia.
But the real reason...the ice cream. I'm guessing since the ice cream is coconut, it might be vegan/non-dairy...coconut cream is pretty high fat so it makes a good ice cream. Got two of them, one topping Hawaiian kulolo (a taro based dessert) and one topping Tahitian banana po'e. Similar, highly caramelized flavors. I think the ice cream itself was the biggest hit.
Then, since we had the time, we went to Byodo-In, which we had skipped earlier. Replica of a famous Japanese buddhist shrine that is nearly 1000 years old, by Kyoto...except the environs of this one are a bit more picturesque, in the Valley of the Temples.
Still beautiful wreathed in fog, but when the Ko'olaus are visible in the background, even prettier!
The real reason we are here...feeding the birds and fish. Two full packs each I think we sprang for. Or at least two, I don't remember.
GIMME SOME OF THAT BIRD FLU
The fish got fed as well, don't worry.
Bird whisperer getting mobbed by her acolytes...
A slight confession. So this family in front of me had moderately mocked their father for not doing the bell hard enough. Encouraged on by this, I figured, well, I'd better make a good showing of it. Put my weight into pulling it back and let it go. Well...it was loud. Like embarrassingly loud, and Debra was somewhat...ashamed is not quite the word, but rolling her eyes at my apparent high-school-boy like goofiness to try to make the bell ring that loud (honestly, I didn't know how hard you needed to do it!). But it did sort of dampen the mood of the place, I think the ideal is a mild, pure bell tone rather than a "wake the dead" (in the Valley of the Temples you are surrounded by them) bell strike.
Making penance to our buddhist hosts for the noise...passing through the temple barefoot.
Peter did it as well, much milder (appropriately).
His version.
Then southwards...this time visiting, albeit not in swim gear, Waimanalo beach.
It's such a pretty beach. But (this is where I put on the Los Angeles accent...I can do that I'm a native Angeleno, right?! It's my birthright!!) I love all the beaches...pretty white beaches like thees, also the black beaches, and hey man, I even love the green beaches.
Something just extra light blue about the water at Waimanalo.
We just strolled in the surf...our swim stuff was still wet.
Were we just stalling for time, since we couldn't get into our room until much later? Yeah. But there are not many better ways to burn time.
Gretchen, who is a connoisseur of wind and constantly loves having the windows down in the car to appreciate the wind in her hair and face, climbed a tree and just sat there with the tradewinds coming in off the ocean at her.
Then we went around the horn, past Makapu'u Point (we'd hiked that short trail last time), and because part of the reason of this trip was to honor the 100th birthday of Jules Ah See, my favorite steel guitarist who died in 1960, like I had done for Alfred Apaka on our first trip in 2019, we stopped at Diamond Head Memorial Park. The kids and Debra went to an adjoining dog park to watch dogs (and hopefully catch a glimpse of Papa Mars...who they had seen last time in this same dog park...Debra was under strict orders to flirt with him so as to contribute humorous blog material).
First spotted, Billy Hew Len. The one-handed marvel, among my top 3...top 4 at least (Andy Iona and him vie for that 3rd spot) favorite steel guitarists. Had his hand lopped off as a teenager in an accident, then had a leather prosthesis made with a bar, and learned to play steel guitar with it better than 99.999% of people who ever tried. I think that's a safe guess...I mean lots of people tried to play steel guitar over the years. My kumu used to sneak into bars in Honolulu underage and he'd let him play his pedal steel.
Iwalani Kahalewai. Ironic since most people who knew her think of her as one of the old aunties playing Hawaiian music (lots of stories of playing with her...from both Kumu Alan I think and just this week, Danny Ki'aha), but almost all of my exposure to her music was from the Tapa Room Tapes, when she was much younger, and possessed a light but powerful soprano. The few songs in that collection that she sang are some of my favorites.
Barney Isaacs! I've already mentioned him, but suffice to say...my second favorite steel guitarist. I should say, I do kind of limit this to the players from the golden age...there are plenty of great players today (chief amongst them my teacher, who certainly is the biggest practical influence on my playing).
Haunani Kahalewai. Deep contralto singer who was featured on Hawaii Calls...she often sang similar standards normally given to Alfred Apaka, likely because of her range...a bit of a female crooner, if such a thing exists.
It's a lovely little resting spot in the shadow of Kaimana Hila, for some of Hawaii's musical heroes.
And of course, most prominently, Alfred Apaka. The guy I
His son, who died a few years back. I'd been in touch a few times. Last time we were here they had a temporary marking that was...not great, looked like a label maker, but they've got a lovely plaque added now, with him buried with his father.
And in a crypt wall...is there a less creepy way to describe that? The guy who would have turned 100 this summer and therefore I thought to be here for his centennial, albeit a bit late. Jules Ah See, my absolute favorite player to ever drag a steel bar across guitar strings. Here is his Hawaiian Music Hall of Fame induction note, which I am genuinely embarrassed about because of how much they put my text in. I'm not qualified to be that much of a voice in these things, but Kumu asked for a quote so I happily provided it!
One new find for me, who happened to be here...a Canuck, Jack Pitman, who wrote the classic hapa-haole song, Beyond the Reef. One of the first few songs I learned on steel.
Lastly, Randy Oness. Early bandmate of Alfred Apaka, composer of the song Haunani which I keep meaning to learn on steel!
Collected the kids and Debra from their dog park adventures (sadly, no Papa Mars this time) and headed down to Waikiki. Checked in to the Sheraton Princess Ka'iulani. You know, having stayed at the Queen Kapi'olani hotel as well...is it a little offensive that we name our commercial hotels on Waikiki after their deposed royalty? But nonetheless...nice balcony view here.
I kept conjecturing what this gray ship was, but my best guess is, a Coast Guard cutter of some kind.
I sauntered down to the Royal Hawaiian Center...the stage was struck because of rain, which was confusing, eventually I found everyone inside a smaller room waiting for it to abate. Walking around I found this advertisement. Heck yes I was here, all the way from Kansas City!
View of the stage from above...rain had stopped so they started setting up.
Tonight was the kids...the NextGen as Alan calls them. Some great students. Here is Hi‘ipoi Lindsey and Enosa Lyman on stage playing together. Honestly this is the stage I belong on...with a Seinfeldian "we're all at the same skill level, Jerry!"
I think this is Ever Ta'ala.
This is Isabella Bertelmann (again, I think, I'm trying to cross reference notes with the event program, so I'm hoping I have it right).
Lastly, this little 11 year old hot shot and dynamo, Isaac Woodward, who played really well...somebody to watch, I hope he sticks with it!
On my way back, spotted a corgi, and took the picture knowing my family would love it. Can't imagine bringing Odin on this trip.
The family went to Raising Cane's for dinner, which is in the Royal Hawaiian Center complex. I took a small side trip to Mitsuwa Marketplace, a local Japanese market. Bought a miso mackerel filet, some nigirizushi, and a musubi for dinner.
Absolutely a delight to watch the sun go down with this view.
Next morning, got up early...Waikiki beach at midday is just hot, crowded and awful, so we thought let's get there early for a swim, beat the crowds (and the sun).
We were the Poors walking through the ritzy and historic Moana hotel, on our way to the beach.
The famous banyan tree at the Moana hotel!
Diamond Head, such an iconic Waikiki landmark.
As anticipated, it was not crazy busy.
An Arleigh Burke cruising out of Pearl...
Walking back to our hotel we accidentally bumped into Kumu Alan (they were here for a breakfast concert at the Hula Grill for the visiting Japanese players)...bit more of a swim in the pool at the hotel, and I noted the cetacean Abu Ghraib statue. My references are aging! Kids these days are going to be "Abu what?"
Much time was spent admiring this little chap.
Then we went on a bit of a "hike" over to the Hawaiian village. First stop, Fort Derussy for the US Army Museum of Hawaii. Government ownership of this land meant that you actually have a museum, and a park, here...on a patch of what would be surely skyscrapers otherwise.
Model of the fort in its earlier form.
Early Hawaiian weapons, homegrown and imported.
Kalakaua's saber.
Early bolt action, the Krag-Jorgensen.
Smaller howitzer...
Up on the roof, an old Cobra.
One of the guns that would have been used in defence of the island.
Birds are busy turning these swords into ploughshares.
Type 95 Ha-Go light tank, with a much better American light tank of WWII in the background (M24 Chaffee it looks like).
A variety of classic WWII American small arms. Thompsons, Garand, carbines, bazooka, 1911, grease gun, BAR, M1903, M1919 GMG...all there.
An equivalent collection of Imperial Japanese small arms. Prominently several shin-gunto swords.
More of the Japanese collection...the odd looking Nambu pistol and a small sake set.
Some very nice German war spoils...a StG 44 (first assault rifle, arguably) and some Nazi daggers.
I can't remember but this must be Korea...Soviet-style and American small arms.
Big old M14.
DShK ("dishka") Soviet HMG set up for anti-air use.
US Vietnam war arms.
Viet Cong style weapons, but funniest part was the bottle in the lower right...of fish sauce. In Vietnam, SOG operators would change their diet to Vietnamese style before a mission because they found you would actually be smellable based on what you eat. Bottoms up with that fish sauce boys!
The simulated late 1960s bar (RnR in Hawaii definitely a significant thing during Vietnam)...I love the bamboo around the TV.
Kalashnikovs, RPK, PPS SMG that the VC would use.
We did all that kinda quick as I knew I was straining my luck with another military museum, but it was closed the last time we were here. Outside in Fort Derussy Park...
At the Hawaiian Village, I almost stopped for this kind of awesome McGarrett swag. JACK LORD!
Paying homage at the statue in the Tapa Tower, Alfred Apaka.
Stopped in for a selection of sweets at Honolulu Cookie Company.
Looping back towards our hotel, we stopped for lunch at Marugame. They make their own udon here!
We split a large bowl of curry udon, a bunch of tempura, and a chicken katsu kare raisu. Ton of food.
See, unfortunately Debra didn't even get this reference, not knowing shit from Shinola. Apparently Shinola Detroit is a maker of...to use the industry term...expensive-ass watches.
We got back to the hotel and cooled off a bit...I listened to Sam Wilkes' new album...don't love his solo stuff as much as I love his playing with Louis Cole, but this one is really good.
I then headed over to the steel guitar fest...this one being focused on Japanese (and I think maybe a Japanese-American) steel guitarists. This is Noriko and Shiji Tomita. Alan and Bobby Ingano sitting in with them.
OK, I found myself fascinated by the culture of conspicuous consumption in Waikiki. You have stores literally across from each other...one of them has a stern looking besuited man standing at attention just inside where they apparently sell diamond encrusted wrist watches to...the sort of man who would wear a diamond encrusted wrist watch. And then across the way you have "Stussy" which lets people in just a few at a time to shop for what I guess are basic surfer guy clothes. All these people are in line for that. I mean...just go to Old Navy, save yourself the time. There's no line.
I think this was Paul Okubo?
And Matt Kobayashi. Others who played were Shinichi Kakiuchi and Lion Kobayashi (didn't get pics of everyone).
Left a bit early to collect the family and head back over to Derussy Park, for the fireworks.
We were maybe 30 minutes early so the kids set about climbing a tree.
We found a palm tree to sit under. Last time we were here we tried to go along the shore but ran into obstacles and ended up only able to hear the fireworks. Not making the same mistake this time.
I've lost track of the tree climbing this trip.
But hey, they are having fun, and nobody fell.
Fireworks kicking off...actually saw it successfully this time!
Took in the fireworks, and walked back to go to bed.
Next morning, straight out to Pearl. First stop, the Bowfin.
The sail, with the Missouri, and Arizona memorial in the background.
Forward torpedo room.
Think this is a wardroom galley.
Officer's wardroom.
Color coded alarms you can pull (I didn't try them out).
I don't think I realized that the periscope is located above, sort of in the sail itself.
I'm not sure if this is for drinking water, or what.
Enlisted mess galley.
Personal space is not a pressing priority for the US Navy.
Engines for running on the surface, or when snorkeling.
Battery related gauges and switches.
Rear torpedo tubes.
The deck gun.
Bofors for air defence.
Periscope and snorkel.
A cutaway model of the Bowfin.
Captured flags...sometimes I forget that we were partly at war with France, technically...Vichy France was under Nazi control.
Propeller from one of the midget subs that attacked during December 7.
Orders for commencement of unrestricted war against Japan sent out that day to the Navy in the Pacific.
Early sublaunched cruise missile (Regulus).
Recovered anchor from the Arizona.
Then onto the little boat they take you to the Arizona memorial. BB63 parked over there.
I was confused for a long time by this. It wasn't an Arleigh Burke. Wasn't an old / decommed Perry class frigate. 42 was hull number of a large number of ships but the active one was definitely not this ship. Eventually I figured it out...it's Australian. HMAS Sydney, a Hobart class destroyer. I should have known, looks like a little red kangaroo on its side. Must have been here for RIMPAC.
Iowa class battleships are lookers. Wait, am I objectifying battleships by saying that, when they technically are objects?
OK (abruptly turns somber) we are here at the Arizona memorial. Last time due to pier issues we were not able to come aboard.
Turret ring.
Most of the people were huddled in the inner room for a talk at this point.
Names of the sailors and Marines entombed below.
The still-leaking oil are known as the tears of the Arizona.
We then went to the Missouri.
Guided tour this time...Debra prefers that, and sometimes it is nice. This guy was fun, and very Hawaiian (not sure how to explain what I mean...but you could see this guy hanging out talking story with the Sons of Hawaii guys in a Waimanalo backyard).
Active duty ships of the USN across the way. DDG-121 Frank E. Peterson Jr, DDG-120 Carl M. Levin, CG-67 Shiloh, and DDG-108 Wayne E. Meyer.
Picture of the arrival of the surrendering Japanese dignitaries. John McCain's famous admiral grandfather was there on the left.
The spot of the surrender.
A kamikaze met his doom here, barely denting the armor. Was given a proper funeral and buried at sea.
Number three turret...the girls went on to look for chow and me and the bow went below.
Enlisted mess...
Snack shop (Pete was dumbstruck by the prices).
Didn't know the CPOs had their own lounge!
Someone in KC I know from the Hawaiian Civic Club contributed to this exhibit so I had to make sure to find it!
MARDET office, for the jarheads running security.
Another shin-gunto.
Bet there was some dry and boring training in here.
The ship is like a floating small town. Of course there's a dentists office.
You can see how the officer class might have gotten a bit of a reputation. But also...I can totally understand it. Like...teenagers keep out for the love of...
Kind of a posh wardroom.
Captains quarters. Not bad. It's good to be the
Captain's desk with quite an ancient piece of computing history there. Reverse image search says, Zenith SupersPort, probably had a 286 and MSDOS.
Outside again, a pair of F-22s flying overhead. 199th Fighter Squadron.
We opted to skip the air museum at Ford Island (running out of time). But we saw the outdoor exhibits from a distance...including a former F-18 from the Blue Angels.
Then headed over to the first section of the big full day steel guitar festival. First up Geri Valdriz. Loved his set last time I was here, very kind of smooth and...simple is the wrong word...more pure Hawaiian maybe? Just not the jazzy fusiony stuff that some of us love (eg Jules and Barney), but it fits the Hawaiian language music so well. Maybe more like Feet Rogers style?
I sat on a rock near a bunch of birds to take in the music.
I texted pics to Gretchen in a failed attempt to make her jealous (they were chilling at the hotel).
Joe Zayac who would also be contributing a lot of great rhythm guitar played a steel set. I chatted with Geri for a bit before he left (checking on his schedule on Maui, which didn't end up lining up, we were on the opposite side of the island when he was going to play). But I need to check out his radio show! Good reminder.
Talking to Alan later, who was going to invite me up for a song later during his set, he just read about Trump being shot. I hadn't heard anything (amazingly, I was not on Twitter). A LOT happened on this vacation in political events. I went back to my room.
Back for the second set (viewable in its entirety here), first up was Malie Lyman. A young player taught by Alan over the last ten (?) years, she's now doing luau gigs. They had some technical audio issues but she played through (even taking one song acoustically while they worked on it). Really lovely voice. She could definitely put an album together, I'd buy it.
Here is a section of here Paoakalani, such a pretty song written by Queen Liliuokalani. Alfred Apaka sang a version, which I mostly knew previously. Unless Alan has taught me this song? Which he may have, I should review it if so.
Then she had her mom, Pomaika'i Lyman onstage to sing the signature tune of her great-grandmother (Aunty Genoa Keawe), 'Alika.
Googling the song I found this video, produced for Hawaiian Airlines, of them playing it together...and right by where we were at Kualoa beach! Walking distance to this pier at the pond. And the closeups answered a technical steel question I had...she has a dual pickup steel (not too common) and the tone kind of had that hollow sound you get with a two pickup guitar in the middle position. In the video the switch is definitely mid position. Usually most Hawaiian players just have the bridge position since they only have that one pickup. Might be interesting playing around with a neck pickup though, might get more of a full "bell tone" sound that would fit nicely.
Next up, Bobby Ingano. I love Bobby, he's just a cool, easy going guy. His sisters were here and he called them out. He has the same thing going that our USS Missouri tour guide had, this ineffable, I don't know, Hawaiian-ness. And such a tone. I realized, I stole my version of Sleepwalk from him, as I watched him play. Told him later I realized while watching him that I must have learned it by watching videos of him on Youtube, since it was like the same thing I play (course, he sounds so much better!).
He lets Joe Zayac do the crooner thing for an at first slow, then uptempo Waikiki Chickadee.
Crew had arrived...with snacks.
Next up was Lion Kobayashi. He's I think 90, maybe 91. Still coming to Hawaii for this, although he tells Alan every time its his last year (hopefully many more). He plays mostly with backing tracks, which isn't my favorite, but it gives him freedom and control, so I understand it. But he is a great jazz player. He also does these amusing mimes of other instruments (air guitar, air drums) to get a laugh out of the audience.
Perfect style for songs like this...a snippet of South Sea Moon.
Then Alan was up! Alan closes it out, and he's the consummate pro (and the reason for this festival).
He saw me showing off my Clinesmith to Geri V earlier and asked if I would want to jump on for a quick song (I jumped and said how high on the way up, so to speak!), so after some hemming and hawing I opted for Waikiki by Andy Cummings. Here's a bit clipped from the livestream feed.
It was a lot of fun. Bid farewell to Alan, Bobby, Joe and the others, and headed back to the hotel after grabbing some sushi and saimin at the ABC store. Gas station (or at least convenience store) sushi, wouldn't be a trip to Waikiki without it.
Next morning, up early and checking out. We headed back to the airport, turned in our rental, and got through security for our island hopper flight.
Saying farewell to O'ahu...
Diamond Head and Waikiki...
And further along the coast, Hanauma Bay and Koko Head.
We flew south of the west Maui mountains and turned north towards Kahului. 'Iao Valley is in there somewhere.
We landed, and a message appeared to me, like out of thin air. I made a solemn oath to live up to these words.
Dropped the kids off with their electronic babysitters, next to a band with a hula dancer, at baggage claim.
Kind of fun train themed tram to the rental car place. The rental car lady was nice, but pushing the upsell. She said our booked convertible would not fit our luggage...really pushed for us to "upgrade" to a Jeep convertible for a lot more money (of course, with a hefty discount she could offer us, but not that much of one). We said, you know what, we'll check and if we can't fit it, we'll come talk to you and see about another vehicle, OK? She said, OK.
We had booked the convertible on purpose and the kids were super chuffed at the prospect. So we really had to try to make it work (if it didn't, if anything I was going to downgrade to a Corolla or something, not upgrade to a Jeep). And by god we did. One piece of luggage, that looks like a minion and I affectionately dubbed the kids "little brother" sat in between the kids in the back seat. Hey, I did that all the way to California (well...Derek was the one in the middle). First stop was Ho'okipa beach for a sort of quick stroll...I just picked it because I liked the name and it reminds me of the song Ho'okipa Paka.
Refuse from a coconut vendor getting picked over by the birds.
Then, onto the road to Hana. We stopped in Haiku for groceries, which we strategically nestled into voids in the trunk where suitcases had not quite filled. Lots of fresh air.
Driving was slow going...lots of traffic, unending single lane bridges (most people were cautious but we had a few oblivious idiots who just barrelled right through them). Pretty, but we only stopped once or twice.
We had a VRBO in Hana area...one that we had to book hastily as a secondary option (our previous VRBO booking was cancelled recently when the owner opted to sell, so we had to scramble). So we made our way eastward through this lush jungle.
You know I didn't mean to upload this one. But since I'm already "paying" for the storage space with it uploaded, heck I'll keep it. Shows how hard it is to take good pictures through a window while in motion.
Some cool trees.
We stopped at a little overlook/rest stop. Kaumahina State Wayside Park, it turns out.
Kids I think were on motion sickness meds so a wee bit sleepy. The Mustang was fun though!
View of Honomanu bay.
Waterfall on the way (zipping across a 1 way bridge).
Some more waterfalls, with people who had parked in very questionable ways/places to get out and climb around or swim.
Then we got to the rental house! At last. And the DRAMA started! So what happens here is, we are in the middle of sodding nowhere. No chance at internet on your cellphone. We got there and I pulled up my saved email, which is on my device, from VRBO to try to figure out how to get in. Guess what, it wants you to click on a link, and then you can get that info! Fan-diddly-tastic. So we are here...no way to get into the house. There's wifi, but likewise, that is also not in the email. I walked to the high ground of the property in the vain hope of getting a signal.
View of our rental from the hill. Idea didn't work.
Next plan...there's a business around the corner, for the Hana lava tube tours. Maybe they have wifi and will take pity on me and let me connect? So we walk that way...first passing through this really cool bamboo section around the drive.
Nice view at the lava tube. They have no internet (or none that they want to share with a stranger, anyway, totally understandable) but the guy offers to call the owner...he apparently helped build the house, and knows the owners. He tries, and can't get through. I remember seeing a sign that had a phone number in front of the property, so I walk back.
Get back to the bamboo area and snap a pic of the sign with the number...and then also one of that very picturesque house.
Back up to the lava tube place. Armed with the new number...the guy tells me, that's actually just the number of the phone in the (locked) house itself. Ah great. I make myself scarce when paying customers come up, but later I chat with maybe his wife (or coworker and she tells me, a restaurant up the main highway a bit has internet. PERFECT. I thank them both profusely, and head back to get the car.
That was the undramatic end to the travail...got to the place and just parked...got onto their wifi, and was able to click on the link that gave me the actual full details, including the wifi password and lockbox code. Headed back and we could finally relax and unpack. And turn on the window units at full blast...it was HOT inside. Outside, did a bit of exploring...a whole line of banana trees...
Coconut palms with firm warnings to stay away. I did sneak in and grab a coconut.
A sizable banyan tree.
Some of my unripe haul...three green bananas, and some unripe lemons.
Peter and I took turns working on the coconut. They had specific instructions on not using kitchen knives on the coconuts...although we are talking AirBnB/Vrbo knives here, I'm not sure it is possible to dull them any more. So we had to get creative with rocks, pruners, whatever I could find.
I did get it open, and then found an awkwardly shaped (for this task) grater to grate up the meat.
The kids meanwhile had made a friend.
Basically a free roaming jungle dog, he stopped in several times over the next few days much to the delight of the kids.
Having worked up a sweat, I needed a shower. And because they provided it...I resolved to use the outdoor shower. We were in the middle of the jungle and I advised the family, on pain of severe retinal damage that could occur, to stay in their rooms, eyes glued to their screens (fat chance of them not doing that by default anyway haha)
The backside of the outdoor shower. No human eyes were harmed in the course of this experiment.
For dinner, I audited the vacation rental spice section (things marooned at rentals can be quite esoteric). I ended up making (from what we brought along from the market) rice, fried spam, and pineapple for the family, and for me, being a weirdo, I made a sort of curry out of sliced up green bananas fried like plantains, with the shredded coconut meat added, and the extra sour lemon juice, with a plausible mix of somewhat relevant spices...cumin and chili powder no brainers, but I think also there was some warm spices, maybe clove and cinnamon, or ginger. Anyway, it came together...served over rice.
Another abandonee...a POG flavored hard kombucha. OK, I'll try it...to the renter go the spoils.
We slept...OK, overnight. Early in the morning what turned out to be house geckos started loudly clicking, which waked me right the heck up. In the morning we realized what the sound was. I made corned beef hash for breakfast, and we had our coffee...view of the front yard.
Then over for an early visit to Wai'anapanapa state park, for which I had purloined reservations.
This place was happily well stocked in cats.
The kids kept a count of unique cats they met.
Definitely the highlight of the visit for them (there's only so much staggeringly beautiful scenery you can take before it loses some of its appeal).
The view of the beach.
It may be swimmable, I don't know, but the surf at this point was rough and the rocks were numerous so we didn't do more than wade in the surf.
This would be our third black sand beach, after Waipi'o and Punalu'u on the big island.
Can't keep me out of the ocean.
Gretchen working on her Ariel pose. Well...no...of course not. Probably thinking about animals.
Too much 'a'a lava here to risk getting pushed into rocks.
Modest sized crab on the rocks.
Gee it was a pretty place.
We found a little sea cave, worth exploring.
One end is open on the beach (watch your head).
The other end basically opens into the sea.
High tides probably come a good way into this cave.
Nice viewpoint...took it in, then climbed back out from whence we came.
Yet another cat encounter...
Walking along the boardwalk, another view of the bay and outcrops of rock.
Panorama of the area.
A view back towards the beach area.
The waves can break against the rock pretty roughly, don't turn your back, or you'll get wet or worse.
Spotted a mongoose. Sort of like their local squirrels.
The cat just keep coming...
We left to scout for other, more swimmable beaches. Just south of Hana town, there's a loop road that you turn makai on...
Parking was very limited and somewhat sketchy (locals probably less tolerant of visitors here, but it is a public beach), and we landed at Hamoa beach.
No kapu balls that I saw, but a site for iwi kupuna. Wonder how old they are. (I didn't go digging.)
It was nearly deserted.
I loved the swimming here though. You had to go far enough out...it didn't get too deep too quickly...to avoid the breaking waves and then it was just like the wave pool at Oceans of Fun. Didn't take a lot of pictures, because I was almost exclusively in the water.
Pete took a spill, got a little emotional, and was covered in sand...the scene was fraught. So that marred the experience a little, but what a lovely spot.
Heading out from there we stopped at the world famous Hasegawa General Store...one of the few general stores that have songs written about them (which I learned in the last couple of years).
A true general store...you can get fishing rods, plumbing fixtures, whatever you need. And really marked up (understandably...its quite remote) food, of course. I ended up getting a chuck steak.
Back near home base, we went back to the lava tube, to tour it ourselves (and to tip, to say thanks to the folks that helped us out the other day).
Former fallout shelter. Who nukes East Maui, I mean COME ON
It's certainly not like caves we know in Missouri.
Sunlight streaming in in this section with a "skylight".
Interesting Hershey kiss type stalactites...kind of rare I'm given to understand?
Some major cracks here.
And lastly, the moray eel rock formation. If you kind of squint you can see it.
Pete and I did the ti plant maze. Noted some (a ton of!) lychee trees and after plucking one of the untold quantity of them I realized they were lychee, and quite tasty...maybe a tiny bit underripe given the sourness but definitely within the margin of ripeness error.
Walking back along the road...the girls left more quickly, as soon as our spelunking had concluded.
More jungle dog pets.
And a much more standoffish jungle cat.
Meanwhile, I grilled the chuck steak...which I don't recommend, unless you are in a remote house in east Maui and you take what the Hasegawa General Store gives...and some pineapple, and with the help of tortillas and some marooned serrano hot sauce we had tacos.
Then we had a family game of Codenames, which they had there. I kind of helped my side clean up, even though I was moderately mentally handicapped by the effects of an IPA. It was fun, and the kids bickered over who gets to team with me, with Debra exhibiting mostly mock annoyance at being considered the worse option to partner with. Jovial moods were quickly adjusted when the power went out. Power being out means internet and any form of communication with the outside world is definitely out too. So Debra and I started walking up the street to evaluate how much of the street was out...I can't remember our game plan, but we had shelter, just no AC and it was quite warm. At somepoint walking up the street and back, we were seeing most of the houses with power/lights, so we wondered if it was a breaker box issue or something. By the time we were back, the lights were back on at our place. Crisis averted.
Next morning we were checking out, with plans to go to a place on the Kihei coast area (mostly resorts)...this was another random place we booked after the first place cancelled our reservations. Debra and I did most of the packing because, hey look, jungle dog is back!
Amused at how boomery these DVDs are...the whole place had that vibe, not that I'm complaining. Two Mrs. Doubtfire DBDs seems a little excessive.
We thought about doing the southern loop around east Maui, as originally planned, but inconsistent signage implied that it may be closed, so we went out the way we came along the northern coast. This looks/looked like 'ohia lehua.
Had to stop here at a pullout because Pete got sick. Good lad though, he managed to puke over the side of the car with minimal splash damage to the Mustang. Good thing we had that convertible! Nice view though.
Pete was out walking it off. You can see "little brother" in his spot between the kids.
Our next stop was Haleakala, after stopping at an inland McDonalds for lunch (with guava pie!). But we got this far up and, wouldn't you know it, the summit district was closed due to active wildfires. I think Maui has learned its lesson. Pele may live mostly on the big island now but you don't mess around with fire.
Then to our posh condo in the middle of a golf course. As Uncle Roger would say, SOOO WHITE. But I approve of the pool rules. Marco Polo getting specifically outlawed? "No "horse play" or shall be allowed", obviously they forgot to add in the second synonym for horse play.
Gecko or anole. I should know by now I suppose.
Neat place...owned by an old white dude who was probably like a middle manager or somewhere. It's weird being at a rental and seeing all of their private photos. But it was fancy, and comfortable.
For dinner, I went and got groceries and we did pork char siu on the grill with ramen noodles and a salad...the gas grills were out by the pool.
Charsiu was great!! Like pork candy.
The view was OK...one of our blandest...mostly of the tennis courts. But the vegetation was nice!
Debra was trying to tack off a swim coverup or something without realizing her sunglasses were on her head...now it should be stated that these are her favorite Disney sunglasses...a pair of which she had already broken, and expensively replaced at Disneyland earlier. So realizing what she had done as she did it, she leaned forward to keep the sunglasses from sliding off her back and breaking. After calling for help for her imperiled glasses, I came to her aid naturally...but not before first taking a picture of the comical scene. With a section redacted because she does not wish to draw extra attention to the swimsuit posterior...but it was still too funny not to put into the blog.
Next day, cooked a breakfast of Portuguese sausage and eggs and then we headed to Ulua beach nearby to snorkel.
I spent most of the time snorkeling, so no more pictures, but Gretchen rescued a dying bee...unfortunately not soon enough. She surrounded it with flowers and placed it here.
Pete also claims to have -stepped on- a sea turtle, in fairly shallow water. We don't know the truth of it (he literally climbed on to me like I was a tree in full panic, I didn't see the turtle), but maybe he did! After that we went back, and Debra and I went shopping at the little upper-middle class white person mall.
ABC store is much more my speed. I am a man of the people.
That afternoon I played a bunch of steel guitar, everyone else rested, and I went to the grocery store to find something to make for dinner. In the grocery store parking lot I found this myna hunting a lizard, which I interrupted. But I turned the camera back on just in time to see him resume his hunt and catch his prey. Good on ye, mate.
We grilled hot dogs for dinner to keep it simple, and then went up to Mai Poina beach to see the sunset...which based on where we were (further up into the "armpit" between west and east Maui), was setting not into the ocean but behind west Maui. Oops.
Kids found more trees.
Seriously they love this. Good thing Uncle Derek is a cautionary tale!
It's a pretty sight for sure.
Deeper up into this one...
Can't remember if this was the last tree they climbed or not (wouldn't surprise me if not).
Strolling along in the surf as dusk settles on Maui.
Would it surprise you to know that this beach was also selected because of a song? Of course not. Mai Poina 'Oe Ia'u...Don't (you) forget me, basically. I listened to Jules Ah See play the song there on the beach, almost completely deserted so I wasn't noise-polluting.
Meanwhile... (they are indeed both up there)
Driving back along the highway.
Next day, after some coffee, biscuits, Portuguese sausage, eggs, and leftover french fries cooked into an omelet, went snorkeling again. First to Keawaakapu beach, but Debra didn't like it for some reason so we walked further down to Mokapu. Which ended up adjoining the same place we snorkeled at Ulua.
Lots of fish to be seen here. Great snorkeling in calm waters. Maui in the background.
Our next stop was Lahaina in a day or two, so I had done some research. Given the tragedy, I thought McDonalds was a bit insensitive with the sandwich they were promoting at the Lahaina location, surrounded in satellite view by the fire's devastation.
Checking out late...saw this game bird. Grouse? I dunno. Kids liked it though!
Our midday stop was 'Iao valley.
The needle is quite the arresting sight.
Lots of places to walk around here and rivers to swim in. If you know what you are doing and are confident no parasites, I guess!
You hike up to it, but not very far at all.
This was the best of several. At least I'm not in it ruining it!
Down a trail to the river, I smelled...and then saw on the ground, wild guava!
A guy swimming in the rapidly flowing water. He was at least keeping cool.
Kids clambering about.
Would be a nice place to spend longer at, but we probably spent longer there than I anticipated.
Trees and rocks. Kids love to climb on them.
Then we started to head out. Beautiful poinciana tree here.
We stopped at a snack place we saw on the way up...in Waikapu.
Again, here I am letting 70 year old songs dictate where we go on vacation. Jules Ah See singing this Alvin Isaacs tune on one of the few commercially released recordings with him singing lead...No Huhu. A comic song with a bit of a dark twist in the story...delivered in thick Pake pidgin that I couldn't get away with now, but hey Jules' last name is Ah See, so he's fine. The protagonist says "if I takee you Waikapu, see me father" to the love interest, and here we are in Waikapu. Jules was from Lahaina initially. To this day I still instinctively quote "ah, sonagabichee, haole him come, man" as a kind of muffled oath when I am minorly frustrated by something.
We got a musubi, a couple cokes, and a haupia sweet potato pie. Everyone complained. They've been pretty vocal about not liking the haupia...I thought maybe a good purple sweet potato layer would save it...but we ended up chucking most of it. You win some, you lose some. But the chickens around the place, that was a win.
View all the way down to the ocean from Waikapu, Kihei coast stretching off on the left, maybe Lanai over on the right.
We headed onwards around west Maui. Finally came to Lahaina. We wanted to see the (miraculously saved) banyan tree if possible. Thought this church was interesting...an Apostolic Faith Church branch, known for its Jesus Coming Soon sign. Was spared in the fire.
But so much, alas, was not. Many areas are shut off to non-residents, so we had to quickly find a way to turn around and get out of there...don't want to be where we are not wanted. So the banyan tree, which I am told survived, we'll just take that as an assumption. The devastation has largely been cleaned up (rubble, etc) but the bones stand...countless stone foundations standing alone.
We went to the local mall (the Cannery) and looked for an aloha shirt for Peter (he is very, very picky). Saw a small exhibit / museum there with some interesting stuff. The blue book of Hawaiian Melodies, I have one of those...and a cedar sake set.
And a shinai (kendo practice sword).
Finally up to the place, a waterfront condo in Honokowai north of Lahaina town. It was an older place...very 70s 80s feel. And...no AC. Was going to be a warm one for sure, the afternoon sun kind of beats in on from the west.
But, the view!
Direct access to the water, with a shower. You could just hop right in whenever. Pretty mild surf, clear water, and cool enough to be refreshing without being cold.
I took a lot of the same type of pictures, so what I am going to do is spread out my travelogue among them, even though the travelogue doesn't necessarily pertain specifically to the pictures.
While the sun was going down, I cooked a pasta dinner, something simple, but crowd pleasing.
Meanwhile once we figured out how to work the TV, we had on Donald Trump's RNC speech, which was a sort of odd delight of weirdness. You do feel disconnected from the mainland whirl of current events here...you are so far behind in time, it feels like a different country a bit. We listened to the Dispatch Live podcast immediately after the Trump speech, which went very long. Sun going down...
We were a bit concerned... neighbors next to us were woohoo country party types, tons of beer cans strewed everywhere, playing country music loudly outside. Neighbors above them diagonal from us, smoking a lot of weed, inside the unit and on the balcony (was a no smoking property except out by the office near the street. Can't get away from the weed smell when you have to have your windows open because of no AC. Would I stay at this place again? Likely, no, but still, the view...
The REAL trouble in the long run wasn't the people in the other units of the place that had fired up my elitism/snobbery with their trash music and/or Towelie smells...it was the adjoining condo facility, which hosted an engagement party that very obviously had an open bar. The yells, whoops, etc continued into the night. I was actually out playing my steel guitar (not with an amp...you can't hear anything) when I think the very obviously staged proposal took place. Congratulations etc but please drink your fill in an efficient amount of time so that you may leave / retire / go to sleep at a decent hour please.
Ah, so pretty. Molokai out there.
It wasn't a low light area by any stretch (foreshadowing, though), but you could see the big dipper at least. Not that I know for sure what that is, but it sure looks like it.
Next morning, driving south down to Ma'alaea Harbor, where we caught this boat for our chartered trip with Maui Snorkeling.
We got a decent spot inside, Peter eyeing the breakfast options.
Lots of juice on offer as well...the girls (maybe Peter?) took motion sickness meds. But the ride was quite smooth.
Approaching Molokini crater, our first stop to snorkel.
Pete got slightly sick here when we stopped, the rocking becomes more noticeable until both tie downs are in place.
No pictures...I have no GoPro, so the sights we experienced there below the waves, well, we'll just have to remember them. Or you could just google Molokini snorkeling and likely find better videos than I could have taken. Lots of fish!
After a while we upended and went to a place they called "Turtle Town", which is a cove on the mainland near the harbor. Google Maps calls it "Coral Gardens", who knows if it has a proper Hawaiian name. But we got back in the water after a quick lunch of a sandwich and some pasta salad, which wasn't mayonnaise based, but was just weird enough to me that I struggled to eat mine.
Once in, the snorkeling was probably better than at Molokini...saw a few turtles too. Even from the boat, the water...quite deep...was so clear that you could kind of see the coral at the ocean floor.
That was most of our day...well, 5-6 hours of it, so we headed back and relaxed at the condo. Debra is holding her phone in the way that she does when she is speech-to-texting, which is her predominant Boomer trait, so maybe she is texting someone here.
Another day here, another set of sunset pictures that don't line up necessarily with the travelogue. I swam a lot, and went to the grocery store, this time getting some more marinated char siu pork belly.
The grill was basically nonfunctional, I found, so I had to cook the char siu in the oven. It worked...would've been better with a meat thermometer and maybe a lower cooking time, but it was fine...ate it with noodles and scallions, and a salad.
An evening swim later and night had fallen.
And a more unobstructed view of the Big Dipper.
Our last full day in the state...my initial plans had been, if Haleakala had reopened, to make a solo journey there (the family would not consider this, they were done with the car for the most part)...but it was still closed. That solved that! So we had breakfast, sausage and eggs and coffee. The rock wall accent in the condo, you can almost smell the 50 year old cigarette smoke in this place and I love it (the 70s vibe, I should say, not the smell of cigarettes).
We did some snorkelling and swimming in the morning. The kids played around with the boogie boards from the condo.
Pete made use of the sand castle tools. Fun that he still enjoys that stuff.
Gretchen with an intense focus, hunting crabs with a net.
Uhoh they must have caught something
We were asked to inspect.
Very nice...if that is for dinner, we may have to lean a bit more heavily on the cheddar bay biscuits and other side dishes, but nice job nonetheless!
Now transitioned to hunting lizards...which I think were a bit too fast for her.
Then we went to a mall type area over in Ka'anapali area...which turns out to be this huge complex of resorts. Super weird to me, honestly, and it made me happier that we were at our more normal, conventional vacation rental condo, even if the potsmokers and country music lovers were stuck there with us. This food truck caught my eye because I knew that EXACT font...as I have used it when wood-burning plaques for my dead pirate deer skull collection. Which is, itself, a long story, but yes, I have a crew of Pirates of the Caribbean (the ride, not the movie spinoff) themed deer skulls in my basement, the first of which warns ominously...Dead Deer Tell No Tales.
I can't remember what all we were shopping for, but we ended up finding a shirt for Peter at Hilo Hattie's, named after the famous entertainer Clara Nelson who went by a stage name of Hilo Hattie, taking over for Alfred Apaka at the Tapa Room in 1960...she's buried at the Punchbowl. Her painting is on the right...on the left, "World's 2nd Largest Aloha Shirt"...I was going to say, where's the first largest, buried with Braddah Iz? I keed I keed I say it with love braddah.
Debra and I went resort crashing, wandering among the several resorts here that basically operate like little enclosed...well, resorts...people aren't necessarily supposed to get in their cars and leave, explore the island. You just stay here, sign up for tourist activities, eat at white people chain restaurants, etc. It was like a little ethnic enclave, really...like if the Hawaiians had said, "let's put the white people in a ghetto, let them do their white people things in there, golf, yoga hell, let them have a Cheesecake Factory if they insist". I mean...not a terrible idea. Just not what I'd want to come to Hawaii for.
It is a pretty enough place...flamingos, parrots...also pigeons but I think they were not placed in there by design, they more just stumbled in uninvited. EXACTLY LIKE US
There were a bunch of dried hot chilies (you know, the arbol types that are small and red that you get in Chinese food sometimes) in this guy's cage, and around it...I figured he must dig them, so I handed him a couple that had fallen. Then I read..."please don't feed me" on the sign, whoops. But I don't think birds are bothered by capsaicin, so he's probably fine.
After escaping the barbed wire fencing the white tourists into the ghetto, we went back to our more modest condo area in Honokowai...I had another afternoon swim, cause it really is just -right there-.
And then in the evening...our previously booked luau in the heart of downtown Lahaina...it wasn't burned but it was damaged and did have to shut down for a long time (with many of the workers displaced due to the fire). Happy to support them getting things back going again!
It was a good sendoff for the last day here.
A small, very professional band...upright bass, guitar, uke...no steel, but that's OK.
Pua'a kalua steaming in the 'imu.
Pete working on a kind of bowling type game.
He looks under the influence but these were in fact virgin pina coladas, of which they had MANY, which may have contributed to them running out of steam / space for the main entrees later.
The unearthing of the kalua pig.
Taro and sweet potato chips with a breadfruit garlic hummus. Was surprisingly good!
A Hawaiian course with poke, lomi salmon, laulau, kalua pig, a fiddlehead fern salad, poi of course, kulolo and haupia.
The band played during the meal and some minor (not the main show) dance acts accompanied on the main stage.
Clearing away the Hawaiian course for the mains...
Pete's face shows his ...discomfort at what was to be asked of him. The main course was a rich tasting steak with a reduction sauce, huli chicken, roasted carrots, a salad, fish, and purple sweet potatoes with coconut cream. We did our best. Caloric intake, through the roof.
Sun going down. What a nice setting for a luau! The ones in active resort areas seem so claustrophobic...I think some in Waikiki do them on parking structure rooftops!
I think the main acts started getting underway just after dessert was brought. Which the kids amazingly found room for, having not had room for much of the main course!
A delightful little dessert, pineapple sponge cake I think.
The show gets underway...kind of traces hula from original (possibly Tahitian) origins and moves it through the history, precontact, Missionary period, Kalakaua restoration, hapa-haole period, and then revival of forms with Merrie Monarch. I really don't know anything about hula, so don't hold me to any of this. Sort of like when I played sitar with a tabla player at a yoga studio...I didn't know or even care much about yoga, I was just there jamming with my tabla playing friend.
Story of Pele sending her younger sister Hi'iaka to Kaua'i to retrieve her lover, Lohi'au. Things don't go all to plan.
Filmed this just because of the song, Old Plantation. Such a great song! Although maybe to make it work for the hula, they play it faster than I think it should be played. Should be stately, slow...linger on the melody and the harmonies. The Alfred version is just perfect!
I'm sure we were tired by this point. Drinking a lot of water...we are not used to restaurant sodium levels. This looks like the Merrie Monarch inspired section maybe?
Night had definitely fallen...based on the dresses I'm guessing this is more modern Hawaii era and it was wrapping up.
We headed home around 9, 9:30 and as soon as we pulled into the condo something seemed off. We quickly realized...power outage! A night without fans or AC, ominous. The moon was at least quite bright...this almost looks like daytime, or more accurately, nighttime in those old Disney live action movies like Treasure Island where they filmed during the day but with filters to make it look dark.
A Twitter check on the Maui power authority indicated it was a broader outage in the area...and mercifully, power came on soon after.
Next morning, aside from ordering tickets to the Book of Mormon musical for next year (in Manhattan...something funny about seeing a Broadway musical in its natural environment, Manhattan, except that it is actually Manhattan, Kansas), we mostly just packed....morning swim skipped over so we wouldn't be dealing with wet stuff to pack.
Moon visible over Lanai.
Beautiful colors of the sunrise over Molokai.
My camera, a Pixel 8, is much better than the one on my previous phone...upgraded specifically because of a rash of just terrible vacation photos from the last phone.
So we bid our goodbyes to this place.
Driving around the mountain, then north towards Kahului. The ostensibly-still-on-fire Haleakala looms majestically.
Kilakila ʻo Maui lā, lei i ka roselani lā
Kuahiwi nani lā, ʻo Haleakalā!
I DID IT! I AM AN AMAZING MAUI BABE
We had some azuki manju...pastries with sweet bean filling. Kids not wild about it. Then boarded our flight back to Long Beach. We got there after dark.
But not so late we couldn't walk a block or two north of our airport hotel for dinner...
And get another visit in to In-N-Out.
Next morning, we went to Dunkin Donuts for breakfast and coffee...then caught the shuttle back to the airport for our flight back to KC. I really should not be making the jokes I want to make about this. TERF, trans-exclusion, I mean it is low hanging fruit. I am too "online". But I do wonder if there are people who genuinely see the LGB thing and think it is trans-erasure LOL
Departure was just before noon. Really do like this airport!
And that's it...we flew home, and everything beyond that is so mundane and normal and unexceptional, it doesn't warrant mention. But the trip was a great success, and we were happy to be back home! (Just as I am happy to be wrapping up this insanely long blog entry.) As the Hawaiians would say, I'm PAU!
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